Gabriel Pascuzzi, a former "Top Chef" contestant, is closing his Portland steakhouse in October and blaming Beaverton residents, in part, for staying away.
Pascuzzi told The Oregonian/OregonLive that suburban diners have stopped coming to Portland to eat. He named Beaverton, Vancouver and Gresham specifically.
"What really happened to Portland is that the suburbs abandoned us," Pascuzzi said. "Vancouver, Beaverton, Gresham. None of them come here anymore."
His restaurant, Bistecca, a wood-fired Italian steakhouse in Portland's Slabtown neighborhood, will serve its final meal on Saturday, Oct. 17.
Pascuzzi said sales dropped after President Donald Trump's tariffs raised the cost of Italian imports he depends on: wine, Parmesan and prosciutto. He estimated he saved $1,000 by buying a wheel of Parmesan just before the tariffs took effect.
But the tariffs were only part of the problem, Pascuzzi said. He argued that Portland's dining scene won't recover until suburban residents stop avoiding the central city.
Pascuzzi also characterized suburban dining options as "mediocre" compared to what Portland offers.
At least two food trucks have already made the move to Beaverton.
Food trucks head to Beaverton
Andy Kou, owner of the Cantonese and Hainanese food truck Hawker Station, moved his business from Southeast Division Street in Portland to Southwest First Street in Beaverton in September.
Kou, a Beaverton-area resident who had commuted to Portland since launching the truck in 2021, told the Beaverton Valley Times the decision came down to rising costs, crime concerns, heavy competition and new opportunities in the suburbs.
"It's been a really tough five years," Kou said. "But I'm glad we'll be home."
The numbers tell part of the story. Kou said the price of a case of green onions jumped from $22 to nearly $40. Chicken wings climbed from $2 to $3.25 per pound.
Hawker Station held a soft opening at its new spot near Breakside Brewery's beer garden and food truck pod in mid-September. Kou planned to roll out an updated menu with Hong Kong-inspired items by the end of the month.
He's not the only one making the move. The Frying Scotsman, a fish-and-chips truck, relocated to Beaverton's BG's Food Cartel, according to the Beaverton Valley Times. Other Portland food trucks have scattered to the Oregon Coast and Milwaukie.
No hard numbers to confirm the trend
No sales figures or foot-traffic data are available to confirm whether Beaverton's restaurant scene is measurably growing as Portland's suburban draw fades. The trend, for now, rests on the accounts of operators like Pascuzzi and Kou.
Pascuzzi's other restaurant, Hey Luigi, a cocktail and pasta bar at 2175 N.W. Raleigh St. in Portland, remains open and recently added pizza. Bistecca's final service is Oct. 17 at 2145 N.W. Raleigh St.
